Frequently Asked Questions
Those buttons you're seeing, typically labeled "TEST" and "RESET," are found on Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) outlets or on cord-connected GFCIs (like on some hair dryers). Their job is to protect you from electrical shock, especially in areas where electricity and water might come into contact, like bathrooms, kitchens, laundry rooms, garages, and outdoor outlets.
The TEST button is there for you to make sure the GFCI is working correctly. When you press it, it simulates a ground fault, and the outlet should immediately shut off power. You should test your GFCIs monthly.
The RESET button is what you press to restore power to the outlet after it has tripped (either from you testing it or from it detecting an actual ground fault).
If the TEST button doesn't trip the outlet, or if the RESET button doesn't restore power or won't stay in, the GFCI outlet is faulty and needs to be replaced by a qualified electrician to ensure your safety.
GFCI stands for Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter. It's a fast-acting safety device designed to shut off electric power if it detects an imbalance between the outgoing and incoming current, indicating a "ground fault." This means electricity is leaking out of the intended circuit, potentially through a person, which could cause a severe or even fatal shock.
GFCI protection is crucial in preventing electrocution. The NEC mandates GFCI protection in specific locations where the risk of shock is higher, such as:
Bathrooms
Kitchens (the 2023 NEC has expanded this to include all receptacles in kitchens, not just countertop ones)
Garages and accessory buildings
Outdoors
Crawl spaces and basements (finished or unfinished)
Laundry areas
Within 6 feet of sinks or bathtubs/showers
Boathouses
Pools (specific requirements apply)
Modern GFCIs are often self-testing to ensure they are functioning correctly.
This isn't about the number of lamps, but the total electrical load they draw compared to the capacity of the surge protector and the circuit it's plugged into. Here's the breakdown:
Surge Protector Capacity: Surge protectors are rated in watts (or amps) and joules. The joule rating indicates how much energy it can absorb before failing. For load capacity, most standard surge protectors (which are technically relocatable power taps or RPTs) are rated for 15 amps.
Circuit Capacity: The circuit you plug the surge protector into also has a limit, typically 15 or 20 amps for general-purpose circuits in a home.
Calculating Load: Each lamp has a wattage rating (e.g., a 60-watt bulb). Add up the wattage of all lamps you want to plug in. To convert watts to amps, use the formula: Amps = Watts / Volts (typically 120 volts in the U.S.).
The 80% Rule: For continuous loads (like lights that might be on for 3 hours or more), the NEC recommends that you don't exceed 80% of the circuit's (or surge protector's) rated capacity. So, for a 15-amp circuit, the continuous load should not exceed 12 amps (15 x 0.80 = 12). For a 15-amp surge protector, that's 1440 watts (12 amps x 120 volts).
This is a common question, and the answer varies depending on your location (state and municipality) and the scope of the work.
Generally: In many jurisdictions, including Texas, homeowners are allowed to perform electrical work on their own property, provided it's their primary residence and not intended for rent, sale, or lease.
Permits are Usually Required: Even if you're allowed to do the work yourself, you will almost always need to obtain an electrical permit from your local building department before starting the work. This permit process often involves submitting plans and will require inspections of your work at various stages (e.g., rough-in before walls are closed and a final inspection).
Code Compliance is Mandatory: All electrical work, whether done by a homeowner or a licensed electrician, MUST comply with the National Electrical Code (NEC) and any local amendments. This is crucial for safety.
Homeowner Exams: Some municipalities may require homeowners to pass an examination to demonstrate basic knowledge of electrical codes before issuing a permit for DIY work.
Limitations: Some complex tasks, like main service panel upgrades or work involving the utility company's equipment, may still require a licensed electrician.
Safety First: Electrical work can be dangerous if not done correctly. Mistakes can lead to shocks, fires, or damage to your home and appliances. If you are not confident in your knowledge of electrical codes and safe practices, it's always best to hire a licensed and insured electrician. An electrician will also be familiar with all local code requirements and permit processes.
Before starting any electrical work, ALWAYS check with your local building department regarding permit requirements and whether you are legally allowed to perform the work yourself.
That intermittent beeping or chirping from a smoke detector is usually a signal that it needs attention. Here are the most common reasons:
Low Battery: This is the most frequent culprit. Most smoke detectors will chirp every 30 to 60 seconds when the battery is low. Even hardwired smoke alarms have backup batteries that need replacing.
End of Lifespan: Smoke detectors don't last forever. Most manufacturers recommend replacement every 10 years from the date of manufacture (check the date on the unit). The detector may chirp to indicate it's time for a new one.
Dust and Debris: Dust, insects, or cobwebs can accumulate inside the sensing chamber, interfering with the sensors and causing false alarms or beeping. Regular cleaning with a vacuum attachment can help.
Humidity and Temperature Changes: Steam from showers or cooking, or extreme temperature fluctuations (like in attics or near drafty windows) can sometimes trigger beeping or false alarms.
Malfunctioning Sensor or Unit: The smoke detector itself could be faulty.
Power Surges or Issues (for hardwired units): For hardwired detectors, issues with the electrical supply, loose connections, or power surges can cause beeping.
Improper Installation/Placement: Placing detectors too close to cooking appliances, bathrooms, or heating appliances can lead to nuisance alarms.
What to do:
Replace the battery with a fresh one.
Clean the smoke detector according to the manufacturer's instructions.
Check the manufacture date and replace if it's over 10 years old or if the unit indicates it's at its end-of-life.
If it's a hardwired unit and the beeping persists after changing the battery and cleaning, there might be an issue with the wiring or the unit itself, and you should consult a qualified electrician.
Regular maintenance is key: Test your smoke alarms monthly, replace batteries at least once a year (unless it has a sealed 10-year battery), and replace the entire unit every 10 years. Ensure you have smoke alarms installed according to code: inside each bedroom, outside each sleeping area, and on every level of the home, including the basement. Interconnected smoke alarms are recommended so that when one sounds, they all sound.
A circuit breaker tripping is a safety feature activating to prevent overheating and potential fire. If it trips when you plug something in, it's usually due to one of these reasons:
Overloaded Circuit: This is the most common cause. You're trying to draw more power than the circuit is designed to handle. This often happens when too many devices, or high-power-draw appliances (like space heaters, hair dryers, microwaves, air conditioners), are plugged into outlets on the same circuit.
Solution: Unplug some devices from the circuit, especially the one you just plugged in. Try plugging the new device into a different circuit. Avoid using multiple high-power appliances on the same circuit simultaneously. If this is a recurring issue in a specific area, you might need a dedicated circuit installed by an electrician for high-demand appliances.
Short Circuit: This is a more serious issue where a hot wire touches a neutral wire or a ground wire. This can be caused by faulty wiring in the appliance you plugged in, a problem within the outlet itself, or damaged wiring in the walls. Short circuits can be dangerous and are a fire hazard.
Solution: If you suspect a short circuit (you might see sparks, hear a pop, or smell burning), leave the breaker off and call a qualified electrician immediately. Do not keep resetting the breaker.
Ground Fault: This occurs when a hot wire comes into contact with a ground wire or a grounded part of an appliance or outlet box. This is similar to a short circuit and will also cause the breaker (especially a GFCI breaker or outlet) to trip.
Solution: Like a short circuit, this often indicates faulty wiring or a faulty appliance. Call an electrician.
Faulty Appliance: The appliance itself might have an internal wiring problem or a defect causing it to draw too much current or create a short.
Solution: Try plugging the appliance into a different circuit that you know works correctly. If it trips that breaker too, the appliance is likely the problem and should be repaired or replaced.
Weak or Damaged Breaker: Circuit breakers can wear out over time and trip more easily than they should.
Solution: An electrician can test and replace a faulty breaker.
Steps to take:
Turn off and unplug any appliances on the circuit, especially the one that caused the trip.
Go to your electrical panel and reset the breaker. To do this, push the switch fully to the "OFF" position, then back to the "ON" position.
If the breaker stays on, plug in devices one at a time to see which one might be causing the overload.
While not always required by code for every single device, it's highly recommended to use surge protectors for valuable and sensitive electronics. This includes computers, televisions, home entertainment systems, gaming consoles, and any device with microprocessors.
Here's why:
Protection from Voltage Spikes: Surge protectors defend your electronics against voltage surges or spikes, which can be caused by lightning strikes (even distant ones), power outages, utility grid switching, or even the cycling on and off of large appliances in your own home.
Longevity of Devices: Even small, frequent surges can degrade electronic components over time, shortening their lifespan. A surge protector can help extend the life of your devices.
Cost Savings: Replacing expensive electronics damaged by a surge can be costly. A surge protector is a relatively inexpensive way to prevent this.
Extra Outlets: Many surge protectors also offer the convenience of extra outlets.
The National Electrical Code (NEC) has been expanding requirements for surge protection. The 2020 and 2023 NEC updates, for instance, now mandate Type 1 or Type 2 surge protective devices (SPDs) for all services supplying dwelling units (homes), dormitory units, hotel/motel guest rooms, and certain patient sleeping rooms in healthcare facilities. These are typically whole-house surge protectors installed at your electrical panel. Point-of-use surge protectors (the strip type) offer an additional layer of protection for specific devices.
So, while you might not need one for a simple desk lamp, using them for your more expensive and sensitive electronics is a smart move. Always choose a surge protector that is UL 1449 listed.
YES, a smoking outlet is a very serious and dangerous situation that requires immediate action! It indicates a significant electrical problem that could lead to a fire.
Here's what to do immediately:
DO NOT TOUCH THE OUTLET OR ANYTHING PLUGGED INTO IT.
Turn Off Power at the Breaker: Go to your electrical panel (breaker box) and shut off the circuit breaker that controls the smoking outlet. If you're not sure which breaker it is, turn off the main breaker to cut power to the entire house. This is the most crucial first step to prevent further damage or fire.
Unplug Devices (If Safe After Power is Off): Once you are certain the power is off to that circuit, and if there are no visible flames or ongoing heavy smoke, you can carefully unplug any devices from the affected outlet.
DO NOT USE WATER: Never use water on an electrical fire or smoking electrical device, as it can conduct electricity and worsen the situation or cause electrocution. If there are flames and you have a Class C or ABC fire extinguisher, you can use that.
Evacuate if Necessary: If the smoking is heavy, there's a strong burning smell, the wall around the outlet is hot, or you see flames you cannot immediately extinguish with a proper fire extinguisher, evacuate your home immediately and call 911 from a safe location.
Ventilate the Area: Once the immediate danger is controlled and the power is off, open windows to ventilate any smoke.
Call a Qualified Electrician Immediately: Even if the smoking stops after you turn off the power, do not use the outlet again. You need a licensed electrician to inspect the outlet, the wiring, and potentially the entire circuit to find the cause and make necessary repairs.
Common causes of a smoking outlet include:
Overloaded Circuit/Outlet: Too much power draw through the outlet.
Faulty Wiring: Loose connections, damaged wires, or old wiring.
Worn-Out Outlet: Old outlets can become loose or corroded, leading to poor connections and overheating.
Short Circuit: Wires touching that shouldn't be.
Yes we do!
When a circuit breaker trips, it cuts off power to a specific area or set of devices in your home. Here's how to tell:
Loss of Power: The most obvious sign is that lights and appliances in a particular part of your house suddenly stop working.
Check the Breaker Panel:
Locate your electrical panel (breaker box). This is usually a metal box found in a utility area, garage, basement, or closet.
Look at the breaker switches. Most breaker switches will be in the "ON" position (often pointed towards the center of the panel or labeled).
Identify the tripped breaker: A tripped breaker will be in a different position. It might be:
In the "OFF" position.
In a middle position between "ON" and "OFF". This is very common. The handle might feel loose or have some play.
Some breakers have a colored indicator window (often red or orange) that becomes visible when tripped.
Listen for Sounds: Sometimes, you might hear a "click" or "pop" from the panel when a breaker trips, though this isn't always the case. Unusual buzzing from the panel can also indicate an issue.
Burning Smell or Smoke: In more serious situations (which require immediate attention from an electrician), you might smell burning or see smoke near the panel or affected outlets.
If you find a tripped breaker, to reset it, you must first push it firmly to the full "OFF" position, and then flip it back to the "ON" position. If it trips again immediately, there's an underlying problem that needs to be addressed by an electrician.
Yes, absolutely! This is a critical safety step. Here's why:
Prevent Electric Shock: Even if the light switch is off, there's always a small chance the switch is faulty, wired incorrectly, or you could accidentally touch live parts within the socket while the bulb is out. Turning off the power at the switch is the first line of defense. For maximum safety, especially if you're unsure about the wiring or if the fixture is in a damp location, it's best to turn off the power to that light fixture at the circuit breaker.
Avoid Breaking the Bulb: If the bulb is hot, it's more fragile. Letting it cool down after turning it off reduces the risk of it breaking in your hand.
Protect the Fixture and New Bulb: Inserting a new bulb into a live socket could potentially cause a small arc or surge that might damage the new bulb or the fixture itself.
Safety steps for changing a light bulb:
Turn off the light switch controlling the fixture.
Consider turning off the circuit breaker for added safety, especially if you're inexperienced or the fixture is old.
Let the old bulb cool down completely before attempting to remove it, as bulbs can get very hot.
Use a sturdy ladder or step stool if the fixture is out of easy reach. Ensure it's stable.
Wear gloves for better grip and to protect your hands in case the bulb breaks. Safety glasses are also a good idea to protect your eyes from dust or fragments.
Gently unscrew the old bulb counter-clockwise. If it's stuck, don't force it too hard, as it might break.
Screw in the new bulb clockwise until it's snug, but don't over-tighten.
Dispose of the old bulb properly, especially if it's a CFL (compact fluorescent lamp), which contains a small amount of mercury and should be recycled.
Turn the power back on at the switch (and breaker, if you turned it off).
A clicking sound from your ceiling fan can be annoying and sometimes indicative of a problem that needs addressing. Here are common causes:
Loose Fan Blades or Blade Holders: This is a very common cause. Screws securing the blades to the blade holders (brackets) or the blade holders to the motor housing can loosen over time due to vibration.
Fix: Turn off the fan and power at the switch. Carefully tighten all screws on the blades and blade holders. Don't over-tighten.
Loose Light Fixture Components: If your fan has a light kit, screws holding the light fixture, globes, or shades can become loose and rattle or click.
Fix: Turn off the fan and power. Check and tighten any screws related to the light kit. Ensure globes are seated properly.
Loose Canopy Cover: The canopy is the cover at the top of the fan that hides the wiring and mounting bracket at the ceiling. If it's loose, it can vibrate and click against the ceiling or mounting hardware.
Fix: Turn off the fan and power. Try to gently wiggle the canopy. If it's loose, look for screws to tighten or a threaded collar to adjust.
Unbalanced Blades: If blades are warped, damaged, or have uneven weight distribution (even from dust buildup), the fan can wobble and cause clicking sounds.
Fix: Clean the blades thoroughly. If they are visibly damaged, they may need replacement. You can also use a fan balancing kit (often included with new fans or sold separately) to correct imbalances.
Worn Motor Bearings: Over time, the bearings in the fan motor can wear out, leading to clicking, grinding, or humming noises. This is more common in older or poorly maintained fans.
Fix: This usually requires professional attention or fan replacement. Some fans have oil reservoirs that may need replenishing, but many modern fans are sealed and don't require oiling.
Objects in the Fan Housing or Hitting Blades: Check if any wires inside the housing weren't tucked away properly during installation and might be hitting moving parts.
Fix: Turn off power at the breaker. Carefully inspect the housing for any obstructions or loose wires.
Electrical Issues: In rare cases, a clicking sound could be related to an electrical problem, such as faulty wiring or an issue with the fan's capacitor. If the clicking is accompanied by a burning smell, smoke, or the fan not working correctly, this is a serious concern.
Fix: If you suspect an electrical issue, turn off the fan and power at the breaker immediately and call a qualified electrician.
While many clicking noises are due to simple mechanical issues you might be able to fix by tightening screws, always prioritize safety. Turn off the power before working on the fan. If you're unsure or if the problem persists, or if you suspect an electrical fault, it's best to call a licensed electrician. Ignoring persistent noises could lead to further damage or safety hazards.